Victorian Open Drawers
Original English Open Crotch Design
Drawers (knickers) were an item of underwear not worn at all until the early nineteenth century and even then not widely. Some have survived from the 1830s and 40s onwards. The cage crinoline in the 1850s made them necessary for warmth and decency due to the chance of the skirt lifting up in the wind. The modesty level might perhaps seem strange to us as each leg was finished separately and joined together with buttons or tapes at the waistband, leaving the entire crotch seam open. These were disaproved of at first as being indecent and not feminine! Long skirts and no knickers was the respectable option, wearing knickers was shocking.
1852: "the adoption of drawers will doubtless become more general as, being worn without the knowledge of the general observer, they will be robbed of the prejudice usually attached to an appendage deemed masculine."
Open drawers were worn beneath the corset. Before the 1860s they are worn long, but in the 1860s and '70s the length changed to just below the knee. Drawers were made of calico or cotton, linen, or silk for summer, or wool flannel for winter. The hems of the legs were trimmed with rows of tucks, insertions, and lace.
Drawers (open crotch knickers) were in some circles, refered to as "ever-ready" ! And the sexual display, real or implied, of the cancan dancer is obvious.
Of course they were much healthier than modern tight fitting items made with synthetic materials and Lycra, although the corset was as restrictive and unhealthy as it could possibly be.
By the end of the 19th century the fashionable style of open crotch drawers was wide-legged and flared. These are straight legged, trimmed with tucks and lace. Other knicker styles and sizes available.
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